Been There, Smelled That explores the aromas of places around the world. Travel writer Maggie Downs investigates some of the world’s most potent smells, looks at how odor cultivates a connection to place, and presents how humans engage with smells, from scents that have endured generations to the latest innovations in aroma-making.
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Around noon, my guide to the Westman Islands grabs a knotted rope and swings along the side of a cliff. Ebbi is a middle-aged man in a sweatshirt and jeans, a newsboy cap pulled low over his brow, and yet up on the cliffside he looks like an Olympic gymnast. Back and forth he goes, flying higher with each pendulum swing, until he’s close enough to reach a bird’s nest that’s nestled along a slender outcropping.
